If you have ever had the urge to eat breakfast like a late 19th-century frontier rancher, then you are in luck. Theodore Roosevelt (c. 1858-1919), a prolific writer and eventual president of the United States, wrote down a vivid description of cowboy morning meals. His account was not one of a rich city elite, in the comfort of his posh mansion, looking from afar at the life of frontiersmen—instead, Theodore Roosevelt wrote his account after having lived a couple of years as a rancher. Roosevelt’s ranching phase came as a recuperative reprieve after the tragic deaths of his wife and mother. While recovering from their loss, he took a sabbatical from his New York political career between 1884 and 1886 in order to try out the cattle trade in the Dakota territory. During his stay in the Dakotas, Roosevelt began writing down observations of the local frontiersman culture, taking notes on the behaviors of his own crew and the rancher community, in general. Breakfast habits were included in these notes.
Curiously, the first thing that Theodore Roosevelt mentioned about rancher breakfasts was the lack of enthusiasm that many cowboys showed for the morning meal, perhaps due to tiredness and time crunches. Breakfast, at least in the adventurous New Yorker’s camp, was set to be served around 3:00 in the morning, and the poor cook was up earlier than that in order to prepare the food. Setting the scene for breakfast, Theodore Roosevelt wrote:
“[T]hey bundle out, rubbing their eyes and yawning, draw on their boots and trousers—if they have taken the latter off;—roll up and cord their bedding, and usually without any attempt at washing crowd over to the little smoldering fire, which is placed in a hole dug in the ground, so that there may be no risk of its spreading. The men are rarely very hungry at breakfast and it is a meal that has to be eaten in shortest order, so it is perhaps the least important” (Theodore Roosevelt, Ranch Life and the Hunting Trail, chapter 4).
Like many good breakfast menus, the rancher morning meal began with a hot beverage. The choice was coffee or tea, served with an option of sugar, but no milk. This accompanied a rather unappetizing main course of plain biscuits and an optional side of baked beans and some fatty meat that had been used to grease up the pans. On all this, Theodore Roosevelt wrote, “Each man, as he comes up, grasps a tin cup and plate from the mess-box, pours out his tea or coffee, with sugar, but, of course, no milk, helps himself to one or two of the biscuits that have been baked in a Dutch oven, and perhaps to a slice of the fat pork swimming in the grease of the frying pan, ladles himself out some beans, if there are any, and squats down on the ground to eat his breakfast” (Ranch Life and the Hunting Trail, chapter 4). Breakfast preferences aside, Theodore Roosevelt’s morning meals on the ranch do sound hearty and filling.
Written by C. Keith Hansley
Picture Attribution: (Photograph of Theodore Roosevelt, dated 1905, [Public Domain] via Creative Commons and the Smithsonian).
Sources:
- Ranch Life and the Hunting Trail, by Theodore Roosevelt. First Published by The Century Co. (1888) and reprinted in 2019 by Digital History Books.


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